Pages: [1]
Print
Author Topic: Your moms a tranny!  (Read 2820 times)
Charles Manson


Location: Liberty Lake

« on: June 16, 2009, 04:56:09 PM »

Just went to the local Fasteners yesterday and picked up some pressure plate bolts as well as picking up my resurfaced flywheel. Ran over to my bro's house to bolt up the flywheel and PP. Checked the torque for FW bolts and it read "94~101". Cool, so I go to torque them down and now two are stripped and I don't want to go any further.

My question, are the A/T flywheel bolts shorter or longer then M/T bolts?

I've also read around and have heard that the OEM flywheel bolts are super soft (like grade 5) and I should be using something like a grade 8.8. Any thoughts?
Logged

You: There's a lot to be afraid of in texas/
Stranger: Terrified, you have no idea how many sexually active, HIV positive armadillos are out there.
Trouble


Location: Austin

« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2009, 09:24:49 PM »

Usually speaking a flywheel (man trans) is thicker than a flex plate (auto trans).   Did you strip out the crank?
Logged
Charles Manson


Location: Liberty Lake

« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2009, 09:57:04 PM »

Were good. I knew the A/T flywheel to crank bolts were smaller because of a flex plate being smaller then a flywheel, I was just being dumb.

Went and purchased a 10 X 1.0 tap and cleaned the threads out. Should be ordering some ARP bolts tomorrow.

Does anyone oppose to getting a Grade 10.9 bolt over the factory Grade?
Logged

You: There's a lot to be afraid of in texas/
Stranger: Terrified, you have no idea how many sexually active, HIV positive armadillos are out there.
Leigh

Location: Chicago

« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2009, 12:12:01 PM »

of all the bolts on a car that "should" be grade 8....flywheel bolts are the only ones that I believe really matter (and of course all the engine internal bolts/studs)
Logged

You all ruined drifting. All the fucking forieners and thier influance on it fucked it like a hammered bag of assholes. The whole point was to make it the worst handeling, eye catching machine possable and then make it fly.  The skill was controling the beats not fucking auto pilot.

Your all going to Hell.
Pat


Location: NOVA/DC

« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2009, 12:17:49 PM »

bolts should not be stripping at that amount of torque.

these didnt cross thread in by chance did they??
Logged

Hopefully no one will notice how gay I look since the car is going to be black and covered in tire smoke at all times.
Charles Manson


Location: Liberty Lake

« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2009, 02:22:43 PM »

Since the bolts were too short, they weren't reaching as far back at M/T bolts would. So they were just sitting and spinning. Bought a tap, cleaned the threads and now waiting on ARP for some new ones.

I've also heard that the stock OEM bolts are soft (Grade 5 I think). Who cares, ARP is better anyways.
Logged

You: There's a lot to be afraid of in texas/
Stranger: Terrified, you have no idea how many sexually active, HIV positive armadillos are out there.
MyChemicalRussellPants


Location: Austin Tx

« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2009, 03:06:34 PM »

They're soft because they're torque to yeild.

you can(should anyway) only use them once.

once you install them they stretch, no good to reuse.
Logged

Go For it Dude.
Charles Manson


Location: Liberty Lake

« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2009, 03:12:53 PM »

So would you rather buy replacement OEM bolts or higher grade ARP ones?

I'm going with the latter or the two.
Logged

You: There's a lot to be afraid of in texas/
Stranger: Terrified, you have no idea how many sexually active, HIV positive armadillos are out there.
Battleversion

Location: so cal

WWW
« Reply #8 on: June 19, 2009, 10:28:21 AM »

Buy arp studs instead of bolts.
Logged
carbotron


...

Location: locked in garage with welder, booze and meth

WWW
« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2009, 10:35:45 AM »

if  you stripped out half the threads on those, when you go to torque the new bolts in, they'll have less engagement and strip out too. order up some timeserts and fix your fuckup. or dont torque those bolts so much and use red loctite on them. should be using loctite on flywheel bolts anyway.
Logged
Charles Manson


Location: Liberty Lake

« Reply #10 on: June 19, 2009, 02:04:46 PM »

I will be using red loctite, already picked some up. The threads are all cleaned out, just used a 10 X 1.0 tap. Should be good.
Logged

You: There's a lot to be afraid of in texas/
Stranger: Terrified, you have no idea how many sexually active, HIV positive armadillos are out there.
Durdan


MUD BONER!!

Location: Ybor City, FL

WWW
« Reply #11 on: June 26, 2009, 07:17:48 PM »

i recommend blue. Red will make it a PITA to remove later
Logged

www.whoisdurdan.com

Leigh, you have 23 hours and 47 minutes to think about your post, choose your words wisely.
Charles Manson


Location: Liberty Lake

« Reply #12 on: June 27, 2009, 02:47:33 AM »

ARp bolts don't require any loctite (and don't recommend it) for their bolts.

Just waiting on a clutch fork, slave cylinder and t/o bearing.

Does anyone know if the t/o bearing from a KA will fit on the SR shaft?
Logged

You: There's a lot to be afraid of in texas/
Stranger: Terrified, you have no idea how many sexually active, HIV positive armadillos are out there.
Durdan


MUD BONER!!

Location: Ybor City, FL

WWW
« Reply #13 on: June 27, 2009, 07:39:12 AM »

yeah its the same one. so is the pilot bearing
Logged

www.whoisdurdan.com

Leigh, you have 23 hours and 47 minutes to think about your post, choose your words wisely.
Charles Manson


Location: Liberty Lake

« Reply #14 on: June 27, 2009, 01:29:41 PM »

Good shit.
Logged

You: There's a lot to be afraid of in texas/
Stranger: Terrified, you have no idea how many sexually active, HIV positive armadillos are out there.
Pages: [1]
Print
Jump to: