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carbotron
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Location: locked in garage with welder, booze and meth
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« Reply #767 on: May 18, 2012, 06:29:03 PM » |
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niuce! i wonder if the stresses are low enough to just cast those sort of housings from some new aweso-resins.
prep was just hand deburr and then ~10 mins per part with a scotch brite prep pad. some wrap it around a chopstick action too.
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matt
Location: Baltimore, md
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« Reply #768 on: May 18, 2012, 07:16:10 PM » |
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You know anything about spherical bearings?
I plan on running Aurora in the sets i'm selling, but i bought some FK and QA1 versions of the same just to see the difference.
Damned if i wouldn't be able to tell them apart if i didn't put them back in their original packaging. Every dimension is identical, all have surprisingly-tight tolerances, identical surface finishes, and all require similar force to make them pivot. All the PTFE liners have the same appearance, from what little sliver is visible.
Do they all use a common source? Is the only difference the name on the plastic packaging?
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Brainfood
Location: Eagle Rock, CA
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« Reply #769 on: May 18, 2012, 10:35:10 PM » |
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Ive talked directly to Chinese bearing manufacturers and I know the majority now are being manufactured their. If they are tight clearance to start I wouldn't worry about it most bearings that suck are super loose to start/not Teflon lined/just look like the manufacturer has no clue WTF they are doing. Anyone ordered from Midwest control? I assume they are the same as the others but I haven't ordered a set to check.
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Stewart Leask
Location: Dallas, Tx
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« Reply #770 on: May 21, 2012, 08:43:21 PM » |
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Matt I would sweat it. I ordered 1/2" auroras for my dw spindles and they ended up being FKs and still feel excellent.
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The more difficult something is, the more satisfaction you get if you get a good result
neither man nor machine never made no time.
Keep it sick and women are objects! -BH |
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carbotron
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Location: locked in garage with welder, booze and meth
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« Reply #771 on: May 21, 2012, 09:11:29 PM » |
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i dunno, by the specs they're pretty similar, and having worked with a bunch, could be the same parts they spec to different FOS or round differently. it's not like there are secret specs on bearings. I'd say calculate the loads and life like you would for a normal bearing application, but all the loading a suspension sees from bumps and potholes is speculative at best, so who cares. if shit don't break, runum.
as far as opinion, i'd go with the cheapest of the HS teflon raced ones and then include a spare with the set if i was selling them as a product. so you have the housing press in or bond in?
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Trouble
Location: Austin
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« Reply #772 on: May 22, 2012, 01:05:32 AM » |
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Matt, we always had good experiences with QA1. It used to be the more expensive stuff was made in the US, but the china stuff was always great.
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matt
Location: Baltimore, md
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« Reply #773 on: May 22, 2012, 07:32:37 AM » |
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good to hear. I was just wondering why Aurora charges almost 2x what everyone else does. i dunno, by the specs they're pretty similar, and having worked with a bunch, could be the same parts they spec to different FOS or round differently. it's not like there are secret specs on bearings. I'd say calculate the loads and life like you would for a normal bearing application, but all the loading a suspension sees from bumps and potholes is speculative at best, so who cares. if shit don't break, runum.
as far as opinion, i'd go with the cheapest of the HS teflon raced ones and then include a spare with the set if i was selling them as a product. so you have the housing press in or bond in?
Since they're going in used control arms, it may be a bit of both. They're press-in if you put them in new control arms, but I don't know what meat-handed mechanic has done to others' control arms in the past, so i'm including some bearing retaining compound, too.  |
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Trouble
Location: Austin
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« Reply #774 on: May 22, 2012, 11:02:06 PM » |
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So, Matt, you gonna give me a ZT deal on these or what?
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Datt Mavis
Gloria Estefan - Conga
Location: Houston
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« Reply #776 on: May 23, 2012, 08:15:56 AM » |
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"Let's all agree that it's OK to whine. It's OK to say that things are terrible, because they are. It's OK. It's true and it's OK. Try it with me. Try it with me and then go to hell."
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Trunk
New Jersey
MOD - All
Location: NJ
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« Reply #777 on: May 23, 2012, 08:30:46 AM » |
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Are you a wizard?
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))<>(( forever
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aks14
Location: Fuckin FaiL
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« Reply #778 on: May 24, 2012, 08:06:09 PM » |
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Welded up some stainless today, 2nd time tig welding SS. V-band to 3-4'' expansion to a 4'' to 4'' oval section. Had the welder set at like 55-58 amps, 15 seconds of post flow, no back purge. Came out pretty decent for my 2nd time I feel like, and I haven't tigged a whole lot to begin with. That and I didnt have any clamps to hold the metal steady and the shit ended up rocking around on the table on me a decent amount.   When you bros usually tig SS stuff do you just hold the torch and more or less draw a line down the seam while dipping the fill rod in, I've seen people do that but I was just used to going back and forth and making little "c's" from doing aluminum and shit. Figured it wouldnt hurt to do it that way, it would just not look as great but should still be pretty strong? Any tips? |
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MyChemicalRussellPants
Location: Austin Tx
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« Reply #779 on: May 25, 2012, 12:00:45 PM » |
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unless you're "walking the cup" don't move the torch around. 55amps is highside for butt weld 16ga, particularly if you're not back purging. not backpurging and trying to get penetration on a non beveled cut isn't helping. no sense in running a ton of post flow if you don't have a 12cup to back it up. .035 filler is a bit better if you don't want to back purge, .045 you can make do, it just tries to stick and mucks everything up. you can see it in this pic a couple times at the bottom, if you don't fill in front of the pool it shapes the puddle weird.  |
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Go For it Dude.
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