C.LOVE
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« on: April 26, 2012, 10:32:21 PM » |
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I hear varying shit on whats great, what sucks, and whats in between.
Currently, I run Mobil 1 10-30 seems to do ok but seems thin and really thin once its heated up. Been tossing around changing brands but I find so much varying shit. Which makes it hard to make a solid decision. What do people run? Royal Purple? Schaffers? Amsoil? Castrol? Kendal? Other shit?
This is for a relatively mild SR that sees little daily driving if it matters any
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stealthx32
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« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2012, 10:37:06 PM » |
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Oil is supposed to thin out when you heat it up...
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C.LOVE
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« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2012, 10:38:42 PM » |
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yeah but its like water. Probably me just wanting to spend money on shit I don't need. Now just answer the question. Oil recommendation please
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wagner
Location: Pittsburgh
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« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2012, 10:52:31 PM » |
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 /end thread |
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Bloodmasters ...... We had it all
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C.LOVE
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« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2012, 11:37:26 PM » |
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I guess what I was getting at with my initial open ended post was: with a higher stress application whats the better oil to use. Seems everyone has an opinion I would really like to know the whys of the opinion. I have read a higher zinc content like many "race" oils use are beneficial to wear surfaces of most engines used under higher stress. Turns out all I do is kick the shit out of this motor
Where I am at is a used SR that had 3 known dumbass's before me using it, not including me. It might be like my old SR and last 8 years and it may shit out the next time I start it. I just want to try anything that might keep it going for a bit longer.
Mobil has done be good over the years. One side why change on the other is there anything that better even if by just a little bit.
Locally available race oils include schaffers and royal purple. otherwise kendal, mobil 1 and castrol are easy to come by.
I would lean towards redline but its gotta be ordered in and I am impatient.
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Vosko
Location: NJ
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« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2012, 11:40:23 PM » |
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I have only run castrol GTX 10w30 and just changed it and filter every event. Stock oil pan, no oil cooler. Never spun a bearing and i beat the shit out of it.
SR is a honey badger, doesn't care as long as it has oil pressure
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[CARBUM]
Dang Drifters
Location: Boston / NH
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« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2012, 11:48:13 PM » |
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/end thread |
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 That pedestal on which you've boastingly placed yourself is entirely in your imagination. |
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OphiuchusMk
Location: Lynnwood WA
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« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2012, 11:57:57 PM » |
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Royal purple, I have a couple buddies that have had their oil pumps break and drive without oil pressure for miles without spinning bearings or hardly getting any wear. Just one test but after showing this to my friend with an h22 he switched. Super stiff valve springs and kept eating up rocker arms with mobile 1, after switching he hasnt had a problem since. He broke his oil pump racing with a 2-3-2 shift and drove from kent to boeing access road with no oil pressure without needing a rebuild. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf |
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LongGrain
Location: Titletown
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« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2012, 01:06:07 AM » |
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1. fuck royal purple in the fucking ass.
2. I use 10w40 rotella t6 synthetic because apparently diesel oil is the only oil you can get (from a normal ass store) nowadays that still has zinc in it. I've heard that all rotella is good shit though, I just buy into marketing and hype, so I get the synthetic shit.
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Jeff_Jordan
Location: Irwindale, CA
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« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2012, 01:31:00 AM » |
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Not all oil thins out at normal temps ~ I used to have to run 20w-50 just to keep my hot oil pressures up, but ever since switching everything over to Amsoil stuff (5w-30 Signature series on street stuff with long drain intervals, 10w-30 Dominator racing oil *best ZDDP additive pack* in race cars where you change it a bunch) pressures stay high no matter how hot it gets.
I like that Amsoil does testing and publishes all their results with competitors named... sometimes competitors do better in a single test, but Amsoil's stuff is never far behind, and usually better overall.
Anyway, lots of people use lots of stuff with good results if you change it often. I dig Amsoil and try to keep it stocked at the shop.
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Leigh
Location: Chicago
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2012, 10:02:57 AM » |
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I've always used Mobile One Synthetic 10W-30, with Mobile One filter.
Don't fix it if it ain't broke
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Risky Devil!You all ruined drifting. All the fucking forieners and thier influance on it fucked it like a hammered bag of assholes. The whole point was to make it the worst handeling, eye catching machine possable and then make it fly. The skill was controling the beats not fucking auto pilot.
Your all going to Hell.
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team ryan
Coming for your hay bales.
Location: santa ana CA
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2012, 10:09:44 AM » |
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I always used M1 15w50 with a 53J00 filter, but that was when I lived in the desert. I'm going to use something a little lighter now that I'm close to the water.
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i.rashid
Location: TX
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« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2012, 10:11:27 AM » |
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I use mobil 1 10w30 with filter also. My sr lasted years without any wear. 1jz was also badass.
Everytime i pour it on it looks thin.
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Primo
Location: WA
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« Reply #13 on: April 27, 2012, 01:27:48 PM » |
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I run Torco 20w 50 in my 2J and SR. Has zinc additive already in the oil and great pressure even when hot. Hard to find oil but its good stuff.
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You seem like the type of guy who girls want to take to dinner.
i will not sell this car to anyone who is friends with lindsay ross on facebook!!
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maattback
squirrelmaster
Location: In analysis mode on Phaelon
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« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2012, 01:53:19 PM » |
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i ran mobil 1 0w30 with lucas TB Zinc Plus additive for extra zddp count on my sr.
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advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome. i never see women win at dogfights, racing, arson or football. so drifting is probably out of reach too.
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